The small and very likeable city of ATHENS, almost seventy miles northeast of Atlanta, is home to the 30,000-plus students of the University of Georgia, and has a liberal feel – and city government – unusual for the South. The compact downtown area north of the campus is alive with book and record stores, clubs, bars, restaurants and cafés; Broad Street in particular is lined with sidewalk tables. It has achieved world fame in recent years as the home of rock groups REM and the B-52s.

Pilgrims drawn by the REM connection will want to head straight for the original home of the Automatic for the People slogan – Weaver D's soul-food café, well within walking distance east of downtown at 1016 E Broad St (tel 706/353-7797). Unaffected by its new sideline in memorabilia, it continues to serve its delicious southern fried chicken and vegetables on molded styrofoam plates. The band started out playing at the 40 Watt Club, originally housed at 171 College Ave but now resurrected in its third, and by far its largest, premises at 285 W Washington St (tel 706/549-7871), and half-owned by Barrie Buck, wife of guitarist Peter. Athens Music Factory, 420 E Clayton (tel 706/353-8869), holds a weekly open mic and puts on a "Battle of the Bands" contest each summer, while Caledonia Lounge, 256 W Clayton St (tel 706/549-5577), is where you can hear new sounds from up-and-coming bands. On the other hand, the big-name bands tend to appear at the Georgia Theatre, 215 N Lumpkin St (tel 706/353-3405), a converted movie theater that still shows films on quiet nights. You'll find information on all music events in the free weekly Flagpole.

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