CAPE GIRARDEAU, responsible for giving Rush Limbaugh to the airwaves of the world, looks down on the Mississippi from a rocky ledge 55 miles downriver. Among its antebellum and Victorian buildings, the Port Cape Girardeau, 19 N Water St (tel 573/334-0954), serves tasty ribs. The Sands Motel at 1448 N Kings Hwy (tel 573/334-2828; $35–50), with a decent restaurant, is good value. You can camp ten miles north of town at the Trail of Tears State Park (tel 573/334-1711, $7 per tent site). The visitor's center at 100 Broadway (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm; tel 1-800/777-0068, www.capegirardeaucvb.org) also has internet access. The road continues south to Arkansas through reclaimed swamplands, rich in wheat, corn and melons, but little else.

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