| Throughout Oregon, the hamlet of ASHLAND, forty miles southeast of Grants Pass, is identified with William Shakespeare – a real anomaly among the rest of the timber and dairy-farming towns. Since 1945, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival has been held here between February and October, packing audiences into the half-timbered Elizabethan Theatre in Lithia Park. Its setting, between the Cascade and the Siskiyou mountains, is magnificent; there's good skiing in the winter and river rafting in summer; there's also some excellent contemporary fringe theater – not to mention pleasant cafés, galleries and a friendly atmosphere throughout. The Angus Bowmer Theatre, adjacent to the Elizabethan Theatre, stages both Shakespearean and more recent works, while the appropriately named New Theatre has a mostly modern repertoire. The three theaters share the same box office (tel 541/482-4331, www.orshakes.org) and tickets average around $40, sometimes half-price on the day; standing room at the Elizabethan Theatre costs $10. For a further helping of contemporary drama, try the Actors Theater, three miles north in the tiny town of TALENT, at Main and Talent streets (tel 541/535-5250, www.actors-theatre.com), or the Oregon Cabaret Theater, in a renovated pink church at First and Hargadine streets (Feb–Dec; tel 541/488-2902, www.oregoncabaret.com). The visitors center is at 110 E Main St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; tel 541/482-3486, www.ashlandchamber.com), and there's a seasonal information kiosk – with longer hours – at the entrance to Lithia Park off Main Street. Greyhound buses drop passengers on the edge of town near the I-5 freeway exit. Ashland has over sixty B&Bs ($75–200), most of which are in charming Victorian homes. Ashland B&B Network (tel 1-800/944-0329, www.abbnet.com) or Southern Oregon Reservation Center (tel 1-800/547-8052, www.sorc.com) can get you a room (and theater tickets). Perhaps the finest B&B overall is the Mount Ashland Inn, five miles south at 550 Mt Ashland Ski Rd (tel 541/482-8707, www.mtashlandinn.com; $160–200), offering five marvelous suites in a scenic wooden lodge, with fireplaces, hot tubs, and fine breakfasts. In town, nice local hotels include the restored Ashland Springs Hotel, 212 E Main St (tel 541/488-1700, www.ashlandspringshotel.com; $75–160), easily the town's most prominent building, with a charming, two-story lobby, day spa, afternoon tea, and nicely appointed rooms; and the cheaper Windmill Inn, 2525 Ashland St (tel 1-800/547-4747, www.windmillinns.com/ash.htm; $75–130), with complimentary breakfast, spa, swimming pool, and convenient location near I-5. For budget options, the Ashland Hostel, 150 N Main St (tel 541/482-9217, www.ashlandhostel.com; $18), is friendly, clean and well-located, while the no-frills Palm Motel, 1065 Siskiyou Blvd (tel 541/482-2636, www.palmmotel.com; $50–75), is one of the better motels on this stretch of road. The main choices for eating and drinking can be found along east and north Main Street, near the entrance to Lithia Park. The choices vary widely, from the good and affordable Ashland Bakery Café, 38 E Main St (tel 541/482-2117), to the pricey, eclectic entrees of The Firefly, 23 N Main St (tel 541/488-3212), and the upscale French Chateaulin, 50 E Main St (tel 503/482-2264). Overall, your best bet is Greenleaf, 49 N Main St (tel 541/482-2808), an inexpensive but excellent eatery with standards like pasta, burgers, salads, and seafood nicely crafted with fresh, tasty ingredients.
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