There would be little reason to stop at the tiny prairie town of RAWLINS, a hundred miles west of Laramie, but for one extraordinary sight: the unmissable Wyoming Frontier Prison, at Fifth and Walnut streets (hourly tours 8.30am–5.30pm June–Aug, by reservation only the rest of the year; $4.25; tel 307/324-4422). In service until 1981, this huge, creepy jail with dark, neglected cells, peeling walls and echoing corridors is as different from Laramie's Wyoming Territorial Park as it is possible to be. While the whole experience is troubling – not least due to the fascinating life stories and anecdotes told with aplomb by the exceptional guides – the darkest moment comes as the gas chamber (in use from 1937 until 1965) is revealed. The Sunset Motel, 1302 W Spruce (tel 307/324-3448 or 1-800/336-6752; $35–50), offers clean rooms, and there's very good authentic Mexican food at Rose's Lariat, 410 E Cedar St (Tues–Sat 11am–7pm, tel 307/324-5261).

Just to the west, the Continental Divide briefly splits into two in the Great Divide Basin. In theory, rain that falls here should remain here, unable to flow toward either ocean – unfortunately virtually all of it evaporates, and the brick-red hell of the Red Desert stretches implacably away to the horizon.

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